Just a few days ago, Patek Philippe, the premier name in high-end watchmaking, made a significant announcement in Munich, the city that hosted the Grand Exhibition back in 2013. The brand introduced its first new collection in 25 years, a development that warrants a detailed exploration. So, I encourage you to read through before jumping into the comments to express any discontent or skepticism about its relevance.
The Cubitus Collection
The new Cubitus Collection features three distinct models: two with time and date functions and one showcasing a sophisticated big date complication. Let’s dive into the specifics before we analyze what this all means.
Reference 5821A – Stainless Steel, Green Dial, Time & Date
First up is the model likely to attract the most attention: reference 5821A, with the "A" denoting its steel construction. This timepiece boasts a bracelet reminiscent of the Nautilus, complete with the latest micro-adjustable clasp, similar to that seen in the 5811G. It features a square case with a finishing style akin to the Nautilus—characterized by vertical satin brushing on the bezel, top of the case, and side links of the bracelet, while polished areas add a touch of elegance.
With a 45mm square case and a thickness of just 8.3mm, it aligns closely with the 5811G’s dimensions (8.2mm) and is even slimmer than the remaining steel Nautilus, the 5712A, which measures 8.52mm.
The dial is a striking olive green with a horizontally ribbed, sunburst finish. Each hour marker and hand is crafted from white gold and coated with luminescent material. A date window at three o'clock is also framed in white gold, paying homage to the limited edition 5711/1A-014, unveiled in April 2021.
Inside the Cubitus 5821A is the new caliber 26-330 S C, which includes a handy stop-seconds feature, allowing the user to set the time precisely. The caliber comprises 212 components, including a 22k gold rotor with unique horizontal ribbing specific to the Cubitus. This movement operates at 4 Hz, providing a power reserve of up to 45 hours.
The integrated bracelet is not interchangeable, as previously rumored, and the watch is water-resistant up to 30m. The retail price for the 5821A is set at $41,243, with availability beginning October 18.
Reference 5821/1AR – Two-Tone Steel and Rose Gold, Deep Blue Dial
Next in line is the 5821/1AR, which mirrors the 5821A but features a two-tone case combining steel and rose gold. Here, the bezel, crown, and central bracelet links are crafted from solid gold, while the dial is a deep blue. This model is priced at $61,276 and is also available at select authorized retailers.
Reference 5822P – Platinum, Blue Dial, Instantaneous Grand Date, Day, and Moon Phase
The most talked-about piece in the collection is undoubtedly the 5822P. This model introduces a groundbreaking complication, showcasing an instantaneous grand date at 12 o'clock, along with indicators for the date, day, and moon phase. Built on the renowned caliber 240, it draws design inspiration from the 5712 Nautilus with its off-center moon phase and running seconds display.
This caliber, known as 240 PS CI J LU, boasts six patents focused on energy management for the grand date—an impressive feat in horology. Notably, it features a rapid jumping second that occurs in just 18 milliseconds.
The blue dial and platinum case (measuring 45mm in diameter and 9.6mm thick) accommodate the jumping date mechanism. The watch is presented on a blue composite strap with a fabric pattern, making it more wearable for daily use. The price tag for the 5822P is $88,378, and it weighs 95 grams.
Retail Challenges and Market Demand
Now that we've covered the facts, let’s discuss the landscape surrounding Patek Philippe retailers today. While the allure of these watches often speaks for itself, the high demand frequently leads to frustration among customers. For example, Simon Brette recently shared that he receives around 30 requests daily for a limited piece like the Chronomètre Artisans, despite only producing 12 annually.
This overwhelming demand extends to all of Patek Philippe’s sports watches, including the Nautilus and Aquanaut. While secondary market prices may fluctuate, the retail demand remains consistently high.
Authorized dealers report receiving 50-100 inquiries per week for "sports watches," creating a logistical nightmare. Many retailers only receive a handful of pieces each year, exacerbating the frustration among potential buyers.
Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe’s president, has long recognized this issue. He emphasized in a 2017 interview that while the company could easily sell more steel models at high prices, it’s crucial to maintain the brand’s credibility and exclusivity.
In 2019, Stern reiterated that the production of steel watches would remain capped at 25-30% of total output. This strategic decision has resulted in the discontinuation of popular models like the 5711A, which has not reappeared in the catalog since.
Final Thoughts
With the introduction of the Cubitus Collection, Patek Philippe seems intent on shifting its focus away from steel watches and the Nautilus and Aquanaut lines. While they may be striving for a more diverse lineup, the reception of this collection remains to be seen.
Personally, I find myself undecided about this release. Despite Patek Philippe’s evident effort, I don't feel a significant innovation or market disruption here. It will be interesting to observe how this affects the brand’s reputation and the future prices of the Nautilus.
I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
